Iona - ancient abbey and pilgrimage site

On our final full day in Scotland we decided to travel to the small island of Iona, off the cost of Mull. It was about a 2 hour drive from Tobermory -- somewhat due to a young man in our car who shouldn't eat eggs on toast and then read in the car!

To get to Iona you must take a small ferry (no cars allowed) and this was the only day we really had a good Scottish rainy day. The ferry ride is quite quick (20 min) and the whole island would take you about 45 min to walk.

The abbey at Iona was the location where the Book of Kells was written - a famous Christian text, richly painted and now housed at the Unniversity of Dublin (funny enough Sherri and I saw it on our trip there about 9 years ago). The abbey is still very active (a service was on while we were there) but it is full of history and Europe's oldest door (how do they check these sorts of things?).

The rain did send us back a little earlier than expected - but Sherri and Callie came home with some wonderful jewelry and we had a great lunch. It was an impressive place to see.

Ben Mor

Sunday is a quiet day on Mull...almost everything is closed. We decided that we would try and hit Ben Mor, the tallest point on Mull and one of the "Munro's" (anything over 3,000 ft). The Munro's aren't quite as impressive (by name) than Colorado's 14k club - but it was interesting to say the least!

Half the adventure was getting to the spot where we started our hike. As I mentioned the roads are predominantly single-lane with lots of "passing places". Combine this with sheep on the road, loads of blind corners and the occasional cow - it makes for good fun.

The weather was not entirely on our side...mist and fog - but no outright rain. We started our hike and enjoyed the new flowers and Kieran was very excited to find these huge black slugs that we don't have at home. The sheep were all around us - but would generally scamper away when we got too close.

We made it about 2/3 the way up and then everyone was pretty pooped; the rest of the hike up would have been pretty tough. We had some great views as the fog lifted (for a time) when we got to our highest point.

Saturday May 14 (Isle of Mull)

Our train was departing for Oban in the West Highlands at 8am and after a few twists and turns we made it to platform 17 where we grabbed a city train out to Dalmuir to catch our connection. A nice man offered us his last two sausage rolls -- and strangely we accepted them!

The train from Glasgow to Oban was used to film many of the train scenes from the Harry Potter films -- so Callie in particular was excited. Our conductor soon informed us that because we didn't have reservations (all the tour books said they were rarely needed) we (and about 20 others) would possibly have to get off and take a bus to Oban. The conductor (a young fellow who looked much like Scottish comedian Danny Bhoy) was dealing with a number of angry commuters including one older gentlemen who was chatting with us later and apologizes to the children each time he said "bloody!".

In the end, something was arranged and we didn't have to get off the train and could enjoy the views through the scenic valleys and the Scottish lochs. Callie is convinced we went by the exact lake they used for the Harry Potter film and she has it on film (who am I to argue?).

It was a very nice trip to Oban - again the weather held out for us and Kieran even managed to snag a pack of Dorrito's out of the conductor's own lunch.

Arriving in Oban, Kieran and I left Sherri, Callie and the bags at the station and headed off to find our car rental. Turns out Hazelbank Motors is a Fiat dealership - they just rent cars on the side. The fellow who arranged the car was on his own - so was a little slow with the system. He was a very nice guy - 3 boys and turns out his best friend had married a girl from Nova Scotia.

Once we secured the car (a Renault Clio -- a bit smaller than expected, but the only automatic there) Kieran and I headed out and had to stop for gas (car only had 1/4 of a tank..."Oh just return it about that" the man says to me...I guess this isn't Hertz). Needless to say the return journey to the station was quick but the whole process took longer than expected and Sherri was becoming concerned. We packed the car and made it onto the ferry and I stayed in the correct lane the whole time.

The ferry ride was smooth -- very large ferries, slightly larger than what runs between Nova Scotia and PEI. There was a full cafeteria with hot meals (and beer!). We enjoyed a spot of lunch and then went to the observation deck to see the island (Mull). At that moment the rain came in a deluge and we were rewarded for sticking our heads outside.


We arrived on the Isle of Mull slightly delayed and made our way for the main city of Tobermory. If I hadn't mentioned, most of Mull is populated with single-lane roads with lots of "passing places". So far we've only had to do one big reversal to let someone by...its an adventure.

Tobermory is the set for the fictional town of Balamory - famous from a BBC kids show of the same name. Its a very nice little town that reminds me of St. John's - loads of colourful houses and pubs.

After checking in and a quick tour of the town we headed to a local pub where the highlight of the night was the sandwich selections. When I asked the bartender what type of sandwiches he had - he replied (with a straight face) "bread". I was sure he was putting me on - but he started laughing at himself and then gave us the real choices. Kieran enjoyed his "bread bread" (and ham) sandwich very much.

Friday - May 13 (Glasgow)

Today was a travel day as we departed Llandudno for Glasgow. We were still short Kieran's bag, which worked out ok for this part of the trip. Kieran carried Callie's pack while she carried the two day-backs. The weather was sunny again - though quite cool - to the point Callie was looking for her hat and mitts (I would guess around 10C with a bit of wind).

The train ride towards Manchester was uneventful - though I was surprised how busy the train was. Once we left Wales and approached Manchester we lost a lot of nice scenery and took on Manchester's more industrial urban appearance.

We changes trains at Warrington Banq Quay for Glasgow - again a very busy train. We're still learning the train-ropes, as Callie and I inadvertetnly sat in a "reserved" seat; the woman who had the ticket didn't mind too much as a seat across the aisle was open.

As we entered Scotland there was a certain sense of familiarity with the landscape. It reminded us of parts of the Annapolis Valley (rolling, green hills) as well as Cape Breton (steep hills). Similar to when we were in Ireland, Sherri and I understood why settlers from this part of the world were so at home in Nova Scotia.

Glasgow Central Station was our destination and location of our hotel as well (the Grand Centreal Hotel). The man at reception (a Fraser) had a background in geneology and gave me a brief history on Clan Mackintosh. While I knew the Clan Motto "Touch Not the Cat 'Bot a Glove" I wasn't clear on its origins (he said it was really a "be prepared at all times" type saying). He also said that the name "Mackintosh" comes from "son of the leader" and is connected with the Irish Prime Minister's title Tau Saech (sp?). Who knew?

The hotel was a grand old hotel - recently refurbished. Our room overlooked the station itself so we could watch the commuters coming and going.

After settling in we strolled across the Clyde in search of dinner. We had seen a listing for "Nando's" which I had believed was an Australian chain. It made Sherri and I giggle over a funny commerical we had seen from years earlier. Turns out the restuarant was in a little complex with a few other chain restuarants, a bowling alley, cinema and giant bingo...another little slice of North America!

I hadn't heard a ton of great things about Glasgow...but the little we saw looked nice. The highlight of the day (for Kieran at least) was the arrival of his bag! He did a little happy dance and then we were all off to bed for an early trip the next morning.

Conwy Castle!

Awesome Conwy castle...

Thursday May 12

We arose to what has been described as a typical Welsh day...cloudy out one window, sunny the other. The good news...no rain. We enjoyed another breakfast with Debbie and Andy here at the Annan and then headed to the station.

Today we headed to the nearby town of Conwy - home to a fantastic Edwardian castle (12 or 13th century I believe). The castle is a national historic site and still a big part of the town. We had a chance to roam the castle walls (again - with no much warning or saftey as we might have expected back home), towers, chapel and gates. It was a truly impressive sight and a real treasure to anyone who enjoys knights in armour.

After lunch, ice cream, and some treats from an impressive bakery we walked back to Llandudno Juntion across the foot-bridge to the train. After a few miscues (and our locating the McDonald's, Pizza Hut and KFC) we made it to the station. The entire time we were being trailed by what appeared to be the same seagul (not the one who dropped me a special package the night before). Sherri had Kieran convinced she had hired this one to keep an eye on him!

We enjoyed our last meal in Wales at a pizzeria run by a lovely east-Indian couple...truly a tourist town. We're off to Scotland tomorrow by train. We go as far as Glasgow and then onto the highlands.

4000 year old copper mine...tight fit

Check this out. I may have said it was a bronze mine...but it was copper. This mine was over 4000 years old and was mined by children (no kidding) -- tight squeeze...